The Intracoastal Waterway

by Clay Bolt

ON A ROCKY STRETCH OF MASSACHUSETTS COASTLINE – WHERE THE AIR IS CHARGED WITH THE SOUNDS OF GULLS AND LOBSTERMEN HEADING OUT TO SEA – AWAITS THE PROMISE OF A GREAT ADVENTURE AND THE STARTING POINT OF THE ATLANTIC INTRACOASTAL WATERWAY, ONE OF THE MOST AMAZING WATER ROUTES IN NORTH AMERICA. WINDING ITS WAY SOUTHWARD ALONG THE ATLANTIC SEABOARD, THIS MAJESTIC PASSAGEWAY DRIFTS THROUGH LONG ISLAND SOUND AND THE DOORSTEP OF NEW YORK CITY; THE MAJESTY OF CHESAPEAKE BAY AND THE DISMAL SWAMP; TRAVERSING HUNDREDS OF MILES OF GORGEOUS RIPARIAN BEAUTY UNTIL FINALLY GREETING THE TANNIN-BLACK RIVERS, CREEKS AND BAYS OF COASTAL SOUTH CAROLINA.

Long before the arrival of Europeans, enterprising Native Americans were already using the Atlantic coast for trade and travel. However, the official construction of the Intracoastal Waterway didn’t begin until 1828 after a water route was enlarged between the St. Johns River in Florida and Georgia’s Cumberland Sound. The construction process was a long and arduous task involving the cooperation of many private and commercial landowners. Remarkably, a span of 112 years would pass before the waterway’s completion in 1940. Today the Intracoastal Waterway, which is co-managed by the Coast Guard and the U.S. Army Corp. of Engineers, is known as one of the premier yachting courses in the world.

Beginning at the Little River Inlet just beyond the North Carolina state line, this liquid highway passes by Myrtle Beach and Enterprise Landing via Prince Creek before merging into the Waccamaw River near Georgetown; known by many as one of the most breathtaking stretches of river on the east coast. Although there are many different ways to see this special area, a kayak tour along these dark waters offers an eye-level view of some of its many treasures. Gliding along silently one is likely to encounter great egrets standing stone-still along the water’s edge; spot white-tailed deer slipping quietly into the vegetation; and hear belted kingfishers call out from ancient live oaks adorned in moss and fern. Some travelers may even be fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of a river otter gracefully disappearing into the dark depths. For the adventuresome spirit, Blackwater Tours of Georgetown offers several different naturalist-guided treks to locations along the Intracoastal Waterway including a stop at the incredible Sandy Island Preserve; the largest undeveloped tract of land along the Waccamaw Neck.

Sandy Island is accessible only by boat and offers a glimpse into our state’s ecological past. Bordered by Bull Creek, Thoroughfare Creek, the Waccamaw River and the Pee Dee River, this 9,164-acre preserve is home to many protected species of plants and animals, including the federally endangered red-cockaded woodpecker. There are two gorgeous hiking trails on-site which wind through tall sand hills, wet bogs and long-leaf pine woodlands. The island was almost logged and developed in the 1990s but was saved after The Nature Conservancy and the S.C. Department of Transportation reached a deal with its owners. Exploring the island recently with Furman Long, an employee of The Nature Conservancy and land steward for the preserve, I was overwhelmed with this unique landscape featuring many botanical oddities. Stopping along the road at one point, Long pointed to a long-leaf pine not much thicker than my arm, “even a tree that size could be 150 years old.” He explained, “they look real healthy but are so much shorter than trees on the mainland because the dirt is so poor over here. The advantage being, though, if we have a hurricane we don’t get hardly any damage because they are so short and have long taproots into the sand.”

Wildlife, including bear, bobcats and deer, also flourishes on the island. However, feral pigs, coyotes and introduced plants such as water hyacinth now threaten to undermine conservation efforts. This serves as a reminder that every effort to “take only pictures and leave only footprints” should be practiced when visiting these delicate places. After listening to my gracious host recount some of his many interesting and humorous experiences on the island, I decided that it was time to move on down the river.

A trip down the Waccamaw wouldn’t be complete without exploring some of the many historical sites also found along its banks. Winyah Bay, where the Waccamaw, Pee Dee, Black and Sampit rivers converge, is a popular jumping off point for anyone wishing to visit Georgetown; a place steeped in South Carolina lure and legend. History and architecture buffs will enjoy exploring nearby Hampton plantation, which is said to have once been visited by President George Washington in 1791. After a day of fun, make your way to Georgetown’s quaint downtown area for some of the best dining in the Carolinas. The Rice Paddy Restaurant, housed in an old bank building, is a local favorite featuring an upscale low-country menu that’s sure to please.

Heading down river again, wilderness begins to reign supreme once more as the Waterway passes by the incredible Francis Marion National Forest and Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge; a 64,000 acre stretch of unspoiled coastal wilderness. As you pass through Bull’s Bay, be sure to to make the trip to Bull’s Island. Known as one the premier birding locations on the east coast, Bull’s Island offers naturalist-led adventures and kayak tours.

The grand finale of the Palmetto State’s Intracoastal Waterway begins to play out as the historic Charleston Battery materializes on the horizon. Steeped in culture, history and beauty, this city offers the quintessential South Carolina experience. With recreational opportunities ranging from horse-drawn carriage tours, moonlit garden walks or a meal at the renowned Hyman’s Seafood, Charleston has it all. Ending the day with a sunset stroll along historic “rainbow row” is the perfect way for travelers to bid this section of the South Carolina lowcountry adieu before sailing further along the waterway towards Beaufort, Hilton Head and a lifetime of great memories along the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. SCM